New House, Long Lists and A Message From Kevin

This week has been cold. We are high enough in the hills that the sky hangs low and close, and everything feels misty and damp, like you are living inside a giant cloud. I moved into Carolina's house this week and I am very content here. They have a toilet that flushes, listen to dance music on a cellphone, are constantly singing along with El Globo and La Magica radio, and we eat big plates of papaya for breakfast. But, the very best part about this new house is that there are no creepy, smelly turkeys and the rats that live with them. I sleep so soundly here, which at first I attributed to a comfy bed, but that isn't it because the bed really is not comfortable by any units of measure. It must be the lack of birds and the constant fear, now gone, of a fighting rat, losing the battle and falling into bed with me.

Carolina and her husband Jelvir are close to my age and Kevin, Carolina's son, just turned ten. Jelvir comes home from working on the fincas in the afternoon and plays marbles in the courtyard with Kevin, while I attempt to help Carolina with the tortillas, but I am certain the whole thing takes her longer when I "help". We all eat dinner together and  no one ever tires of having a good laugh at the expense of the sad, misshapen tortillas, that could only have been made at the hands of a gringa.

Yesterday we made our last postnatal visits in Rosario, as well as two prenatal visits. It felt like a very successful day, and was the first day that at both visits I was able to find the heartbeat, the sound of the placenta, and also had a very good idea of what kind of curled up little position the baby was in. I'm not sure what changed, but what used to feel like a whole lot of lumps and bumps now feels like and even looks like a baby. I am very pleased by this, as I was growing tired of half-heartedly saying, "uh, yea… that does feels like a (insert body part)?" 

I have composed a few different lists, was just in that kind of mood. If you are thinking about living with midwives in Guatemala they may be of interest to you, if not, I'm not so sure. 

Top Eleven List

Best packing decisions, things that make life feel a little more cush. 

(in no particular order)

1.Wool Socks

This may be the single most important piece of clothing I brought with me. While fantasizing about fleeing Hudson and escaping to the warm tropics, I am thankful that I stopped long enough to heed the advice of my friend Jenna. It gets cold here and they are so cozy.

2. Scarves

I always wear scarves anyway, but scarves now function in two new and very important ways;

1. As a very chic Grace Kelly or a very typical Abuelita head wrap and shawl. This is perfect while riding in the back of pickup trucks, and when I am not wanting to completely screw up my hair until the next time I get to wash it--which may be awhile.

2. As a handy face mask and pollution filter, for the thick clouds of dust in the road, or unpleasant smoke from burning garbage. This smoke used to completely freak me out. I mean, I'm not really certain what they don't burn. But, when the bus passes this one huge, burning, garbage dump, I think about it less and less and simply cover my face with my scarf like all the other ladies on the bus. 

3. Needle and Thread

Every thing I own is falling apart. Pretty much all of my clothes are from second hand shops. I can't bring myself to pay full price for anything, but love expensive cashmere with a Salvation Army price tag. So I shouldn't be too surprised to be finding holes in everything. These have proven to be two very necessary items. 

4. My Own Pillow

I bought one of those foam travel pillows that compresses to fit into a tiny pouch. I would recommend not buying this type, because it is made from some space age foam that may or may not cause cancer. I'd have gone with down, but it gives me an almost instantaneous asthma attack. But this little foam, potentially hazardous pillow is suiting me just fine, and before I left I even sewed myself a case for it, made out of an ill-fitting and generally unattractive, but luxuriously soft, cashmere, cable knit, turtleneck, tank top number. It is ridiculous and wonderful. I want cashmere everything.

5. Glass Water Bottle

I've gone through at least three of these glass Life Factory bottles, all of which shattered, but somehow still find myself highly recommending them. Since it's glass, I can put pretty much anything into it and it doesn't hold onto a gross flavor or metallic taste, and it doesn't feel freaky to put hot liquid into it, no leeching! Plus, I can tell it is clean, unlike most steel water bottles where you can't see a damn thing, and make your best guess based on how weird it smells.  It is a little heavy and if the cap is not twisted on well, or not on at all when it gets knocked over it will break into a million pieces. Hence I'm on my fourth.

6. Bodum Commuter French Press Mug

The recipe for the coffee that the Guatemalans are drinking is; a scant amount of instant powdered coffee and two or three heaping (as in, as much as you can possibly scoop) spoonfuls of sugar, mixed with hot water. The resulting beverage tastes pretty similar to a flat bottle of Pepsi, left in a hot car. 

So this travel mug/french press is my best purchase, maybe ever. I think they may be a little pricey, but I bought the display model from a store, and because it was missing a piece I got it for cheap. It makes the perfect cup of french press and stays hot for hours. Which is annoying when I want to drink my coffee within an hour or two of making it, but on nights that it looks like we are likely to have a birth, it is perfect.  I can make the coffee before bed and by the time I am called in the middle of the night it is still hot, delicious and makes however many measly hours of sleep I have had seem like plenty. 

7. Practical Footwear

I never would have thought that I would say those words. Do all moms say 'practical footwear', or just mine? Anyway, I am hooked and eternally grateful for my practical and sturdy; Dansko clogs, slip on Seaveas and Birkenstock Gizeh sandals. These are more socially acceptable than regular Birkenstocks because Gisele and Mary-Kate have been "spotted" wearing them in paparazzi photos, I checked...I'm only sort of kidding...actually I'm really not.

8. Crafty Stuff: Glue stick, scissors, microns, watercolors and sketch book

I can sketch, right down words and plants that I don't know and paint pictures with the kids. I brought kid scissors and use them to trim my bangs, cut flowers and make collages.

9. My Button-up Demin Shirt

A lot of the Guatemalan guys wear them, and so do I.  I love this shirt, because it makes me feel a bit like an archeologist and has the same warmth as something halfway between a regular long sleeve shirt and a sweater. 

Worn in all the right places, it actually looks better with some dirt on it, and so rarely sees soap and water. Purchased at an estate sale, straight out of a dead women's closet, which sometimes irks me, but not much because this shirt is well loved and seeing the world, what I want for all of my dear possessions once I'm gone. 

10. Probar Bars

They aren't exactly the most delicious thing ever, but they are fairly wholesome and do the trick. I brought a bag with me and when I ran out, I actually found them in a store in Antigua. But, they are expensive in the US and at least twice as expensive here. Still worth it, and a great thing to have in the bag I take to births. While I'm not going to so say I hate eating sweet, white bread pastries offered up as middle-of-the-night-snack and chased with an orange soda, I will say that I usually end up feeling tired, crappy and bloated afterwards. So I now have a handful of these 300-something calorie bars, strictly for emergencies and long births. 

11. Gifts, Stickers, Supplies and Baby Clothes

I packed a lot of this, but also had some moments of, "but what about all the other stuff I want to bring, this is taking up SO much room!" But, I'm glad I brought all this stuff and wish I had brought more. Especially stickers and baby stuff. I'm nowhere near as popular with the under 10 set, as I was with a sticker book.  People don't have much in general, and really don't have much in the way of baby clothes, it is always fun to celebrate the new baby with some tiny, new outfits. 

Things I'm glad I didn't bring, did bring and don't need, or should have brought with me;

Sonicare Toothbrush...

This is just silly and I didn't bring it. But, living without mine has made me realize how effective they are and that I need to floss more often. Still, glad I didn't bring it, those things are heavy and one less charger in my life is not a problem.

Clothing I Never, Ever Liked Wearing...

But brought with me because, "it would be the perfect place to wear such a thing." But, I didn't wear it at home and I'm not going to wear it here. I think I've learned from this mistake, but we shall see, there are certain items I just can't seem to put in the Goodwill pile.

Two-in-one, Lantern/ Flashlight

I know they exist, because all the girls in Campfire (just pretend I said Girl Scouts) had them when I was a kid. I brought a headlamp and a flashlight, both of which are good thoughts, because the lighting here is usually limited to a single bulb, and sometimes there isn't electricity at all. The headlamp is sometimes useful when at a birth, but is terrible and blinding if I want to make any sort of eye contact while wearing it, and the flashlight just isn't useful at all. But, a lantern type thing, that would be fantastic…next trip.

Sunscreen/bug repellent

I feel like a responsible adult for having both of these things with me, but I never use them. It is pretty cool here and when it is sunny, I can really use a bit of that. It's not like I am baking in the sun slathered in baby oil or anything. I know my sister would beg to differ with this reasoning, as I think of her long sunscreen application sessions in preparation for a walk in the Seattle sun. She will probably look eternally 20-something-years old and I'll be sorry, good for her (just kidding Sara!) But, in all honesty, SPF that isn't full of nasty chemicals feels like a second, greasy skin and looks like clown makeup or else doesn't and costs $40 a bottle, and that just seems like a very boring thing to throw money into. There really aren't any bugs up here, so my repellent was a waste of valuable packing space and also leaks all over my toiletry bag.

Books

I've been reading a lot, but only whatever books I can find in the book exchanges, that are also in english. This has forced me to read some of the classics, and other titles I never normally would have picked up. Since I always have trouble picking books, this lack of choice has been enlightening and I'm glad I only brought two of my own.

Things Guatemala has (that I don't ever want to live without)

1.Tortillas. Duh.

2. Frijoles. Beans that take hours and hours to cook, are incredible and don't give you stomach pains or gas. With a light drizzle of creme on top, it is the perfect food.

3. Incense- I buy these little granules from the market, and put them into this tiny traditional incense burner with a piece of hot ember from the fire. It smells great, and just like the only thing about being in a catholic church that I ever liked.

4. Sweetened condensed leche ice cream popsicles, with liquid dulce de leche inside. There is also a rum flavored version, with raisins on top, which isn't my taste, but I can still appreciate, and know a handful of people who would be crazy about it.

5. Papaya. I never liked it before now, it just tastes better here.

But, the Guatemalan things I most want to import back with me pose the same problem; They all require a big open fire. The beans, the tortillas, the incense, and the hot embers to put in a pan under the covers with you when it is extra chilly. So I've been struggling with this in my head.  Would there be room in my parents backyard for a fire pit? Could one use a barbecue? Will I have to start camping again? Not certain, but I will keep thinking on this. 

I also wanted to share this note from Kevin, I let  him type on my computer and he left this message for me;

kitlen    es muy     amable    y   respetuosa      y   tiene    muchas      cosas.   atentamente,

kevin    sergio   nehemias     bal  lopes   

Translation;

Caitlin is very nice and respectful and has lots of things.

Yours Truly, Kevin Sergio Nehemia Bal Lopes

Kind words, and yes, I brought too many things and it sort of makes me feel like an asshole.

Dona Eulalia talking with an old midwife friend.

Baby Karin Estella, she just kills me. I love this baby.

Bougainvillea. It grows all over fences and walls and in the past used be a sign of a wealthy home, may still be, I'm not sure. It is also an effective remedy for sore throats and coughs. Brew the flowers with cinnamon as a tea, and drink with a bit of honey. Warning: I don't think this is safe herb for use in pregnancy, but I am not certain about this.